More than 290 species of birds live here.—More than one-third of Australia’s species., Kakadu National Park is a birdwatcher’s dream. But with Luke Paterson, renowned as the ‘Hawkeye’ of the nature tourism industry, the dial is turned up to the max.
A large Land Cruiser rolls down the hotel driveway. The sun isn't up yet, and car headlights flicker through the bushes, putting the spotlight on the early birds. It highlights the singers of the noisy early morning choir that last just over the first verse.
Even beyond the unusual façade of the Crocodile Hotel in Jabiru, the area is rich in birdlife.
The driver's door of a four-wheel drive vehicle opens. Beneath the battered rim of the Akubra, Luke Patterson's bright eyes and boyish smile greet us and welcome us aboard.
Check out our video of our tour around Kakadu National Park with Luke here.
Christina and I were lucky enough to attend Kakadu Bird Week in the NT. For eight days in late September, the incredible abundance of birds is celebrated here. This coincides with the arrival of the Bamarru, a mass migration of magpie geese that populate Kakadu's depleted waterways at the end of the dry season.
As we drove 20 minutes to our first stop, Mamukala Wetlands, Luke chatted to us about the NT, Kakadu, birds and his background.
From his childhood camping trips growing up in regional Victoria, to working as director of Broome Bird Observatory WA and finally moving to Darwin to start his own nature travel company, NT Bird Specialists, Luke has always been into nature. .
Luke's personal acclaim for wildlife tourism and his company's numerous awards speak to an illustrious career. And in birding circles his name is recognized everywhere.
He has a rare and enviable mix of talent and passion, combined with a humble outlook on being able to relax in his company and ask any questions. But we don't mention his nickname 'Hawkeye'. And I somehow resist the temptation to point out how much he resembles Paul Rudd.
But he is, right?
But it is to his credit that Luke's openness and easygoing laughter, his generous sharing of his profound knowledge and his general enthusiasm, are evident. He has an amazing ability to make you feel comfortable.
Birding with Luke Patterson
We arrive at Mamukala Wetlands and head to the receding waters in the dim dawn light.
As we walk, a sound like a huge swarm of bees fills the air. We realized it was not the buzzing of insects, but the echoing calls of thousands of magpie geese.
These mass migrations are one of nature's true spectacles. I feel like I'm watching something by Attenborough. The air thickens as these gigantic birds arrive by the dozens on strings and arrows.
But it's not until we see it through Luke's impressive monocle that we get a sense of the true scale of the scene.
A goose fills 20 km² of water. Flocks of geese can be seen grazing on the nearby shoreline. But we look 10 meters further away. And then another 10 and another.
Soon our focus turns to the horizon, until the morning fog and glimmers of the day's heat turn the field of view into a homogeneous moving mass, with many geese too far away to be seen.
But Luke points out other birds mixed in with the geese. Comb-crested jacana, black-necked stork, Rajah bark duck, grebes, cormorants, sandpipers… The creatures here are overwhelming.
We look at Luke, his face beaming with joy. He's probably been here and seen this a million times. But this appears to be his first.
Mamukala Bird Skin
Soon it's time for the next step and we go to where the birds are. We look at birds on the water from a new angle, much closer than before.
The sight of migrating geese is still impressive, but rather than being the main event, it creates a backdrop to other waterfowl here.
About 30 meters long and with a wooden deck, this hide is a comfortable way to see local wildlife up close. Additionally, the path up to the hideout connects with the car park, making access to this part of the wetland very easy.
far from water
After spending some time in the shelter, we take another walk among the dense trees and bushes of the wetlands. Once you leave the water's edge, you'll find a completely different species of birdlife.
Diamondback doves, tawny frogmouths, pheasant coucals, numerous finches, honeyeaters, flycatchers and even the odd and agile wallaby make their presence known. But if Luke isn't with us, there's no way he knows what we're seeing.
At the same time, at the end of the walk we walk back to the car so confident that we can now identify even more birds thanks to Luke sharing his knowledge.
Of course, this is a bit of an unfounded confidence, and you quickly realize that you need more practice. But Luke's infectious enthusiasm motivates us.
morning
A short drive down the road will take you to a picnic area next to the banks of the East Alligator River, the main waterway that passes through Kakadu from Van Diemen Gulf.
Luke spreads out the tablecloth on the picnic bench and we sit down together to enjoy a breakfast of fruit, pastries and coffee. But this is not the end of bird watching.
Above us we see a Whistling Kite, a common bird of prey in Kakadu but fascinating nonetheless. White-bellied eagles soar higher in the sky, and many small birds live in the trees next to our table.
As the clock struck 10 am, the midday heat was upon us. We climb back into Luke’s 4×4, happy to have air conditioning.
We returned to the hotel feeling refreshed, which was surprising considering how long we had been awake. We say goodbye to Luke and as he rests in his room, he reminisces about a time that seemed to have disappeared with him. We were with Luke for five hours, which felt like five minutes.
I hope I get a chance to bird with him again.
Next time you're in the Northern Territory, be sure to book a birding tour with Luke Paterson of NT Bird Specialists. It's an experience you'll never forget.
Bird species found at the Mamukala Wetlands and a picnic area next to the East Alligator River
magpie goose | Straw-necked Ibis | white neck gerigone |
green pygmy goose | white-headed plover | white-eyed honey eater |
Rajah Shelduck | royal spoonbill | Barbreasted Honey Eater |
feather whistling duck | whistling kite | Rufus Joule Honey Eater |
wandering whistling duck | white-bellied sea eagle | Dusky Myzomella (Honey Eater) |
pacific black duck | purple marsh | Red-headed Mizomela |
australian grebes | Lapwing wearing a mask | white neck sucker |
diamond dove | Bitcrested Jacana | White-bellied Cuckoo Shrike |
peaceful dove | Wetlands too. | Various Trillers |
broad-shouldered pigeon | Sharptail too. | Rufus Whistler |
Tawny Frogmouth | australian platinum call | green (yellow) oriole |
little spotted cormorant | Australian tern | Willie Wagtail |
little black cormorant | bearded tern | Torresian Crow |
Black-necked Stork (Jabiru) | Little Corella | magpie lark |
cattle egret | Sulfur-crested Cockatoo | Papershell Flycatcher |
Intermediate (Feathered) Egret | Red-throated (Rainbow) Lorikeet | Lemon-bellied flycatcher |
great egret | pheasant coucal | double bar pinch |
White-throated Heron | Little Bronze – Cuckoo | long tailed finch |
spotted heron | blue wing kingfisher | masked pinch |
Nankin Night Heron | forest kingfisher | Crimson Finch |
Australian White Ibis | rainbow bee eater | |
Glossy Ibis | Red Lantern Fairy Ren |