Ask anyone about Athens and they will tell you about its ancient history, but it is a city more about the future than the past. Despite all the gods, monuments and myths, Athens today is very forward-thinking. It is a place of politics, creativity, bohemianism and a flourishing arts and culinary scene.
Friday evening
The lively Gazi district is the place to be for first-night enthusiasts. Bohemian bars spill out onto the mural-covered streets, next to traditional taverns filled with young artists. Start your journey for the city’s best souvraki at Elvis (Archimidous 1-5), Athens’ gourmet restaurant, which, oddly enough, pays homage to the King. There are a few tables outside where you can soak up the atmosphere and enjoy soft pita filled with high-quality chicken or pork. After you’ve finished, walk through Gazi to Monastiraki, not far from the decadent Hotel Gatsby Athens, past the beautiful neoclassical Benaki Museum, until the cobbled streets narrow.
Admire the politically charged street art adorning the walls, then head to Couleur Locale, a rooftop bar hidden in a back alley and accessed through an inconspicuous hole in the wall. Climb the many steps to one of the best views of the Acropolis. Guests sip cocktails and nibble on tapas while a live DJ sets the soundtrack. As the sun sets, the ancient citadel is illuminated in golden light. Couleur Locale is the perfect place to watch it all unfold. Or head to Dolli, the nearby Smith hotel, where guests can watch the ancient city turn from dusk to darkness from the photogenic rooftop infinity pool. The water reflects the Acropolis like a mirror. It’s pure visual heaven.
Saturday morning
It may seem obvious, but if you are new to Athens, you absolutely must see the Acropolis up close. It is an awe-inspiring sight. If you want to avoid the crowds (and intense heat), go early and book in advance. A tour guide is helpful, but not required. You will be overwhelmed by the majesty of this sacred temple. A tribute to human determination and what civilization can achieve, the Acropolis has watched over Athens for over 2,500 years, and standing next to it is a humbling experience.
If you want to avoid the inevitable lines, hike around the area and take in the city’s stunning terrain. I love Anafiotika, a small, picturesque neighborhood northeast of the Acropolis hill, lined with whitewashed houses and bougainvillea. It’s not far from the touristy Plaka district, but it’s much quieter. After all that walking, you’ll need some nourishment, so book an Uber and head to the Blue Parrot, a jungle-like arty restaurant and bar on the pedestrianized square of Metaxorgio. The music is great, the food is fresh and generous, and the cocktails and coffee are equally strong.
Saturday afternoon
A five-minute walk from there is Breeder, the city’s most popular art gallery, located down a run-down alley. Known for showcasing a mix of local and international creative talent, this former ice cream factory looks dauntingly sparse, but the staff are friendly, enthusiastic and knowledgeable, and the artwork on display is always inclusive and thought-provoking.
Saturday evening
Athens, as I know and love it, is all about art, food and nightlife, so next stop is Seychelles. This is a laid-back, well-loved restaurant that even the locals agree still lives up to the hype. It’s housed in a 19th-century building, with tables scattered outside and a lively crowd of people who come to dine and enjoy the atmosphere. The food is excellent, constantly changing and affordable, with a well-crafted menu that uses the best local produce to create classic Greek dishes with a modern twist. The fish is heavenly, but there’s no sloppy cooking here. But for more upscale seafood, head to Xenodocheio Milos, where you’ll mingle with Athenian celebrities.
Afterwards, take a short walk to Bios. Bios is a hub of arts and culture, and has a rustic industrial rooftop bar that often hosts film screenings and DJ sets, but thankfully not at the same time. Like most rooftop bars in Athens, it offers an unforgettable view. From here, you can look down on the magnificent Parthenon. Don’t miss Bios’ signature Popsicle cocktail, the perfect cooler on a balmy evening.
Sunday morning
Sunday mornings should start with a delicious coffee and pastry, so head straight to Ergon Bakehouse for a selection of lovingly made and artfully presented sweet and savory delights. A short walk from there is TAF, a multi-purpose cultural space in Monastiraki that serves some of the best Javanese cuisine in town. Not far from the Smith Hotel Ergon Bakehouse Athens, Xenodocheio Milos, Dolli, TAF is housed in a neoclassical building with a plant-filled courtyard that houses independent shops and a family-run coffee house. It becomes a busy bar as the day goes on, but in the morning there are few places more serene to unwind from the night before.
Less than 100 metres around the corner is Abyssinia Square, which hosts a huge flea market every Sunday. It is a mix of stalls selling household items, curiosities and antiques, from beautifully embroidered linens to silverware, and a jam-packed second-hand shop. Once you’ve found the perfect souvenir, have lunch at Cafe Avissinia, the only restaurant on the square and a favorite among Athenians. Sit at one of the tables outside and enjoy the cozy atmosphere, or head upstairs to the top floor restaurant for the best view of the Parthenon.
Sunday afternoon
At this point, you have two options: beach or more culture. If the sun is shining, do as the locals do and drive 40 minutes to the Athens Riviera. One of Europe’s most overlooked beach destinations, this elegant stretch of sand is lined with chic beach clubs, bays and restaurants overlooking the Aegean Sea. Stay at One&Only Aesthesis, where Jackie O and Brigitte Bardot played in the 60s, or book a decadent treatment at the Guerlain Spa.
Or, if you’d rather enjoy culture than just sunbathing, visit the sprawling Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre, an arts and education complex on Faliro Bay. The SNFCC hosts exhibitions, operas, classes and talks, but spend Sunday afternoons admiring the award-winning architecture and strolling through the sloping landscaped park that extends above the buildings, scented with olive and cypress trees, lavender and thyme. Don’t miss the Lighthouse, a rooftop deck accessible via elevator or park, offering panoramic views of Athens, the port of Piraeus and the Saronic Gulf.
Sunday evening
From May to October, the Theatre of Herodes Atticus (or Herodeon, as the locals call it) is the main outdoor venue for the Athens Festival of Arts and Culture. This 2,000-year-old stadium on the southern slope of the Acropolis is one of the best places to see music or theatre, and the easiest way to avoid the Sunday blues. If you visit in winter, put on your coat and your best shoes and join the Athenians in climbing the Areopagus Hill. Grab a beer (and some more souvraki) at the kiosk, then walk up to the rocky outcrop for one of the city’s most captivating views.
Need to know
transport The center of Athens is easily accessible by foot, but the metro system is cheap and reliable, running from 5am to midnight. All public transport (buses and suburban trains) can be traveled with the same ticket (a single ticket costs €1.20 and is valid for 90 minutes). A day pass costs €4.10, while a three-day tourist ticket, which includes unlimited travel and a return trip to Athens International Airport, costs €20.
When should I go? Although the public visits Greece in the summer, the best time to visit Athens is in spring and fall, when there are fewer crowds and it is less hot.
What should I buy? Leather sandals by Stavros Melissinos, a third-generation sandal maker and poet who created beautifully crafted, timeless shoes for the likes of Sophia Loren, The Beatles and Jackie O. His business is now run by his son, but the same quality and classic design remain. For a full view of the best craftsmanship the city has to offer, book an appointment at The Anthologist, a lovingly curated concept store, studio and exhibition space selling vintage and antique fabrics and brass. ArtAccessories, jewelry and ceramics are made by local Greek artisans. Founder Andria Mitsakos walks through the collection, gleaned from her travels to her homeland and beyond, and tells the story behind each object.
Worth knowing Avoid Athens around August 15th. It is a public holiday, locals will have fled to the neighboring islands, and most of the best bars and restaurants will be closed. Also, keep in mind that Athenians eat late, usually between 9pm and 10pm, with most kitchens open past midnight. In tourist areas like Plaka, restaurants open earlier, but if you want a busy and authentic experience, have a drink first and eat later.
From Ancient Times to Beyond: View the entire Athens Hotel Collection