When it comes to great cheeses, seafood and amazing meats, most French people think of one region in France: Normandy.
Yes, about a two-hour drive north of Paris, nestled between the medieval city of Rouen to the south, a flower-filled coast with elegant houses and a racecourse to the north, and the D-Day beaches of Normandy and Mont-Saint-Michel to the west. Normandy is French Gourmet Region.
Most people have heard of Camembert cheese, but very few people in Norman know that it all started in a town called Camembert.
Here's how to plan the best gastronomic itinerary in Normandy.
The outline is as follows:
Start your Normandy gastronomic journey with a visit to Camembert from March to October (morning visit)
Yes, according to the local story, around 1790, leaving the frenzy of the French Revolution, a young bishop, Bishop Bonvoust, arrived exhausted and hungry in the small town of Camembert.
There he happened to meet a young woman who had lost her husband. That might be true for Angry Bull. Who knows?
In any case, she gave the bishop a safe haven, and step by step they improved their cheese-making skills. At the time, most women made cheese, cream, and butter at home, and ministers had the privilege of maturing and refining soft cheeses.
Almost 100 years later, when the French Emperor Napoleon III arrived in the nearby town of Vimoutiers, their grandson Victor Pesnel presented the emperor with a gift of local cheese. The emperor was delighted with its unique taste and asked where it came from. The answer came from Camembert Victor Pesnel!
It was there. Cheese had a name.
Now, if you want to know more about France's representative cheese, be sure to visit Camembert. Camembert is a beautiful village about an hour's drive from Caen or Bayeux. It’s a truly picturesque place.
There you can visit the Camembert House, a museum dedicated to the history of the famous cheese. You will learn about the history and importance of terroir and the places where it is created.
Camembert is now a designated origin product or AOP product. A real camembert should be made only from Normandy cattle with brown eyes.
We call these goggles. Smart cow.
From 2021, you can also participate in the production of the iconic cheese in Camembert. A small farm was opened in the village so that visitors could see the entire production process. The factory operates only on weekday mornings. It is a very small factory with only 4 employees, so it is only open in the morning.
Current annual production is set at 25,000 cheeses per year. They own all the livestock and process the raw milk on site. We also make delicious cream on Thursdays. The milk from these cows is so thick that the cream looks and tastes like vanilla ice cream.
Then, head to the little shop next to the museum where you can get samples of the wonderful Camembert cheese to see for yourself the differences between the real cheese and the raw milk version made only from Normandy cows, as well as similar standard versions. It is sold in all supermarket chains around the world.
Please promise me. Once you taste real camembert, you will never go back to regular camembert.
Lunch at Watermill near Lisieux
After Camembert, enjoy a unique lunch at Le Moulin du Fossard.
Since 2018, Katy and Benoit Villeneuve have taken over this restaurant near Lisieux.
Believe it or not, the building was previously a small camembert factory, and even before that, a chocolate factory. The watermill was its engine. It now serves as a wine cooler for some of the region's best bottles.
It's not yet a tourist attraction and is on a small side street, but it has a serious and steady clientele of French gourmets who know what they're looking for when they come here. Each month, depending on the season and availability of local produce, Chef Benoit changes his menu and takes great pride in showcasing the essence of beetroot, spinach and trout.
Benoit, who previously worked at Le Drakkar in Deauville, was tired of dishes that required more slicing of truffles, lobster and caviar. Now, with simple yet surprising products, he no longer shows off but focuses on subtle flavors for those who want a truly gourmet lunch or dinner.
Katy and I met at Le Normandy Hotel in Deauville, they fell in love with the place and now many locals love this little restaurant. A real little gem.
Normandy's liquid gold, Calvados (apple brandy)
Normandy is also famous for its unique alcohol, Calvados.
According to legend, the recipe was invented in 1553 by a gentleman farmer from Cotentin, Lord of Gouberville. But apples have been a local fruit for centuries.
The Normans have been drinking cider since Roman times, and William the Conqueror, grieving after the death of his wife Matilda in 1078, may not have been told not to drink cider to numb the pain.
There are numerous Calvados distilleries in the area. There is also a tourist road. cider roadLike Burgundy, it's a place where you can stop almost every five minutes to sample another unique spirit.
Calvados is a distilled version of cider. After distillation – in the Pays d'Auge around Lisieux, Pont L'Evèque, a double distillation is performed to obtain the best liquor. It must be aged in oak barrels for at least 5 years to achieve a smooth and pleasant taste.
It can be aged for more than 5 years. The older you get the better, the better. expensive.
If I could recommend more than one brewery not far from the Le Moulin du Fossard restaurant, I would recommend these:
La Spiriterie Française in Le Breuil en Auge
In 2020, Mr. Dussart took over the distillery and not only expanded the range of spirits produced, but also significantly improved distillery visits.
The distillery is located at the exit of the A13 in Paris, near Pont L'Evèque, on the way to the famous Trouville Deauville.
It is also a Renaissance castle. The Chateau currently operates as a B&B and can be rented during the week or weekends. Please contact the distillery and they will be happy to explain how to rent a chateau.
Of course, after your distillery tour, you will get to sample most of the Calvados they produce. The bar where you can taste this is reminiscent of a trendy Parisian bar. They also serve delicious cocktails with young Calvados.
Calvados Experience
Another distillery nearby that I highly recommend is Calvados Experience At Pont-Leveque.
Also known as Le Pere Magloire, this distillery is part of another French spirits group, Spirits of France.
Since 2020, they have created an immersive visit that takes you on a journey into the history and landscape of the Normandy region to show why this product is indeed the true spirit of the region.
At the end of the tour, you can taste all the Calvados they produce and more in a bar very similar to a Manhattan.
Ice Cream in Honfleur
If you still have time in the summer, we recommend ending your Normandy day trip with Honfleur.
The quay of Honfleur, a beautiful little port town that has been untouched since 1500, is now the perfect place to enjoy a café and ice cream.
But there is ice cream and ice cream.
Ice Cream at La Ferme du Bois Louvet
The place I always go to is Les Glaces de La Ferme du Bois Louvet.
This place is located around the corner from Honfleur City Hall, next to the Art Museum. Their ice cream is made 100% from the farm's milk, which is used to make their delicious ice cream.
No preservatives or artificial flavors.
Moreover, they offer flavors that no one else does anymore, such as the delicious old-fashioned Flombiere flavor made with almond extract, kirsch and candied fruit.
There's no better way to end a hard day's work.
Have a nice trip!
Normandy Food Tour
Experience the culinary delights of Normandy in just one day on an exciting small group food tour from Caen.
Explore lesser-known parts of the region while taking in breathtaking views of Trouville, Deauville and Honfleur. Meet local producers and learn about their craft as you taste famous Norman delicacies such as Camembert, Pont-l'Eveque cheese, cider, and Calvados. Dine at some of Normandy's best restaurants, including Michelin-starred restaurants.
Your knowledgeable guide will also provide interesting insights into Normandy's culinary history.
Enjoy convenient hotel pick-up and drop-off in Caen for a hassle-free experience. Small groups ensure you receive personalized attention throughout your trip.
Price: From €700 per group (up to 6 people)
continue: 9 hours
Free cancellation possible up to 24 hours in advance
mobile ticket
Tour in English, Italian, French and Spanish
Book directly with your guide here.
Included:
- Taste a variety of delicious dishes
- Comfortable transportation by air-conditioned minibus
- Professional guidance from a friendly local guide
- Private tour guaranteeing exclusivity
What to Expect on a Normandy Food Tour
Start your day with a guided tour of Lisieux Cathedral before enjoying lunch at a stunning two-Michelin-starred restaurant on the picturesque river of Pays d'Auge, famous for its world-class racehorses. Then, indulge your taste buds at the Cider and Calvados Distilleries, where they sample outstanding liqueurs renowned for their unique flavors.
Continue to Pays d'Auge to meet the skilled cheesemakers who produce the traditional Pont L'évèque cheese and the creamy Douville en Auge cream cheese and gain insight into their time-honored techniques.
End your trip with a visit to Honfleur. This charming seaside town whose Impressionist charm inspired artists such as Eugène Boudin and Erik Satie. After an unforgettable day exploring Norman gastronomy, return to Caen around 6 PM.