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“Death or the west coast of Greenland,” said the indomitable polar explorer Fridtjof Nansen, which may have been the motto of the first expedition to traverse the interior of Greenland in 1888. He later called it a “madman’s plan,” which I think could be applied to most polar explorations of the time. What does it say about me that it inspires you to want to visit Greenland?
Greenland, the world's largest island, is now much easier to access, but in many ways it still retains the myths and wonders that have captivated explorers for centuries. There are no roads connecting the communities here. It still holds top honors for the least populous country on Earth.
Wild, ancient, heartbreaking and profound, Greenland has carved a place in my heart.
Last summer (Northern Hemisphere) I spent quite a bit of time in Greenland, exploring on an expedition ship with Adventure Canada. Most Arctic trips visit Greenland at some point, and it got under my skin in the best way possible.
The first thing you need to know about Greenland is that it's really remote. There are no roads connecting cities and communities (although this is changing). Yes, you read that right. In winter, you can travel by plane, boat, or snowmobile. If you want to pack a lot, the best way is to take an expedition ship.
Another big thing to note is that although Nuuk is the capital, the main airport is in Kangerlussuaq, 300km to the north. That's where you fly from overseas.
Greenland now ranks highly as one of my favorite places to visit in the world. I will go back right away. It is truly a country worth hearing many stories about. Here are the first photos of our time spent visiting Greenland in the Arctic. Enjoy!
In the waters east of Greenland
I don't need to tell you that Greenland is far away. Only 56,000 people call the world's largest island home.
It is also an autonomous nation within the Kingdom of Denmark. You will notice this very quickly, especially if you have spent time in other Arctic countries. Denmark's wealth and funds are evident here. Especially when compared to the Canadian Arctic (more on that later).
Almost all people live in the more developed western part of Greenland, especially in the south, where the climate is more temperate. The eastern coast is rugged, full of glaciers, and uninhabitable. I visited Greenland for the first time on Adventure Canada's Iceland to Greenland: In the Wake of the Vikings expedition ship. It was a really cool way to get to Greenland for the first time. We started seeing the coastline through the ice at sunset and it was amazing.
Oh, and did I mention that Margaret Attwood was a special guest on this trip? unbelievable.
beautiful things
If I had to guess, Ilulissat would probably be the biggest tourist destination in Greenland. And after making a few phone calls, I could wholeheartedly agree. It's a very cute town with lots of big and small shops, places to eat, and lots of fun activities to take part in.
Some of the largest icebergs in the Atlantic Ocean originate here. In fact, it is believed that the iceberg that sank the Titanic came from here. Home to the Ilulissat Icefjord, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is home to Sermeq Kujalleq (Jakobshavn Glacier), the most productive glacier in the Northern Hemisphere, dropping more than 20 billion tons of ice per year.
The fjord is filled with icebergs that break off from glaciers, often up to a kilometer high and the size of a skyscraper. Too large to float, it sticks to the bottom, blocking the area, breaking apart and floating into Disko Bay. Nothing inspires people to visit Greenland like these iconic polar landscapes.
Kbalsi
Hvalsey is home to one of Greenland's great mysteries. And it's also a place that proves that Greenland can be green. sometimes. Greenland's best Norse ruins can be found at Hvalsey on the south coast. Icelandic settlers from Norway first arrived on the southwestern coast in the 9th century, but they all died out over the next several hundred years.
Hvalsey is also the site of the last recorded remains of an original Norwegian colony. Poof, they disappeared from history: a church wedding in 1408. Even today you can visit church ruins around Hvalsey.
We visit Hvalsey, Iceland and sail to Greenland: In the Wake of Vikings with Adventure Canada.
Ebbix Head Fjord – Kangerlussuatsiaq
Three months in the Arctic seas meant we saw our fair share of glaciers and fjords. And trust me. They never get old.
But one of the most inspiring is Kangerlussuatsiaq. Try speaking three times faster! In Greenlandic it is translated as “a rather large fjord”, while its old Danish name, Evighead, is translated as “the fjord of eternity”.
Sailing along the 75 km long fjord is just as amazing as reaching the tidal glaciers. The scenery is spectacular, and you can often spot seals napping on the ice. On an unusually calm and sunny summer day, we jumped into the polar region from here.
Nuuk
After a trip to the seas around remote Greenland, I was delighted to arrive in Nuuk and have my first oat latte. It ended up costing me $14nzd but it was worth it. I had three.
Nuuk is a nice little city. It's small and completely walkable. There are some tourist shops and attractions, but it still feels authentic. The views are amazing and the museum is one of my favorite places. I hope to spend more time here someday.
Prince Christian Sound – Ikerasassuaq
At the bottom of Greenland is Prince Christian Sound, one of the most beautiful waterways to explore. Here the Irminger Seas and Labrador Seas meet along the islands of the Cape Farewell archipelago. The mountains and scenery are dramatic, and wherever you land is spectacular.
It was named after the 19th century Danish king Christian VIII. Denmark has had a colony in Greenland since the 18th century, and Greenland is now officially an autonomous nation within the Kingdom of Denmark. Although Danish is no longer an official language, it is widely spoken.
Sisimiut
Sisimiut is Greenland's second largest city and is considered the gateway to many outdoor adventures. It is located within the Arctic Circle, surrounded by steep mountains and incredible views. There are lots of good cafes and shopping around Sisimiut, and the open-air museum is also quite amazing. We have stopped here on several tours, including the iconic High Arctic Explorer trip.
Every time we call, we enjoy a setting called “A Taste of Greenland” in the hotel’s main square, which features some of Greenland’s most iconic dishes, including whale. I will delve into this topic much more deeply later, but I will say that my time in the Arctic opened my eyes to the subsistence hunting of indigenous people that takes place there. In other words, whales are an acquired taste. And texture.
When we visited Sisimiut last September, we witnessed the most amazing sight: the Northern Lights. By then, the midnight sun will be over. I was sick and recovering, and my bae's best friend knocked on my door until I got up and went to meet them. No regrets.
Illukulik – Lindenow Fjord
Southern Greenland is truly spectacular. We spent several days traveling from east to west Greenland along the coastline. We also had the most amazing weather throughout our trip, with continued warm and sunny days.
One of the reasons I remember stopping at Lindenow Fjord was because of the fog. Smoke from massive wildfires in Canada is flowing into Greenland, causing slightly hazy skies. There was no significant difference in landing and there was no smell of smoke. But it made for an absolutely spectacular sunset.
Some of the photos taken here are some of my favorites from the entire season spent at sea. We hope to continue to inspire people to visit Greenland.
Unnar Talk
In southwest Greenland is Uunartoq, a small island with the only hot springs warm/cold enough for swimming, which tourists at least know is blocked by a swimming pool.
Uunartoq, surrounded by icebergs and beautiful mountains on a foggy day, was a real highlight for everyone as we took a dip in the crystal clear pool.
Kangerluluk – Bad Fjord
Landing in Greenland for the first time after sailing from Iceland took me by surprise. The weather was warm and sunny when we arrived in the remote fjord of Kangerluluk. We landed on a sunny beach with fresh polar bear footprints in the sand. It was a very expedition style travel day. These landscapes inspire people to visit Greenland.
Surrounded by massive mountains with beautiful glaciers falling to sea level, I wandered through the tundra for hours soaking in this amazing place. And I try not to accidentally soak in too many mosquitoes. Bugs in Greenland in the summer are no joke. This is a time to pray for wind.
That said, I spent a lot of time in Greenland in the summer, and this was the only day the bugs annoyed me.
Kanak
Qaanaaq was my favorite stop when I visited Greenland last summer, and it was a complete coincidence.
On our Out of the Northwest Passage trip, we visit Grise Fiord, the northernmost town in Canada. But Mother Nature dictated our travel itinerary, and the roads were regularly blocked by thaw that summer. So instead we called Qaanaaq. Greenland's northernmost town is spectacular. Surrounded by the mountains and icebergs of Baffin Bay, it has colorful homes, friendly locals and a rich history and culture. And there were tons of sled dog puppies.
It was also the base and home of famous Arctic explorer Knud Rasmussen, whose house is now a museum.
cape york
Kap York was one of the furthest points north on my trip to Greenland with Adventure Canada. When we arrived the mountains were shrouded in fog and the water was so calm you could see arctic char sliding beneath the surface. On land, if you stand still, you can hear the birds buzzing overhead through the fog.
As morning approached and the fog gradually cleared, a huge flock of pigeons suddenly appeared and flew over the top of the cliff. They flocked to and fro, almost bat-like in form and abundance. I'm not sure I've ever seen anything like it. Playing peek-a-boo in the fog made everything even creepier.
Below, a family of arctic foxes are playing in the summer snow, jumping in and out of rocks. The iceberg broke and rolled into the bay. At this point, I was convinced that I had entered another world. What is real life like?
Thasius
In northwestern Greenland we made several visits to Tassiussaq, one of the most interesting archaeological sites I have ever been to.
Much of Greenland's history is centered around the European Vikings. The truth is that Greenland has a much deeper and more interesting history, dating back thousands of years to the Thule people and ancient Inuit people. Adventure Canada works hard to bring professional guides with us, including archaeologists and Inuit cultural educators who specialize in the places we visit.
Tassiussaq was one of the places where we could see the ruins of Thule's houses, meat cellars and even tombs, but we politely kept our distance from them.
Are you feeling inspired to visit Greenland now?
Many thanks to Adventure Canada for hosting me in Greenland. As always, I am telling you the truth. All opinions are my own, so expect less from me!